If you do hit something that binds, pull the bit, use a prybar to derock your hole if necessary, and pop the drill into high speed an spin it fast while lowering it very slowly into the hole to tear the roots. If you don't apply too much pressure, it will bounce against smaller rocks and knock them loose and allow it to apply more force to a smaller amount of root when it hits. Once the hole is started enough to keep the tip straight, continue drilling, but keep the drill spinning (Max speed on high torque/low speed mode is usually about right) and brace strongly against rotation while you slowly apply downward pressure. In order to twist, the drill has to push against both of my legs and all the muscle in my arms and core. Drilling hip level for example, I put the trigger handle between my legs and the auxiliary handle in front of my left leg. Depending on height, think about which way it will twist the drill if the bit locks up and brace the drill securely on your hip, thigh or ankle. Make sure your elbows and knees are bent at least a little and put the point of the augur down on the ground.
Otherwise use your second hand to brace the body of the drill.
Garden auger drill bit reviews how to#
Ok how to do it? Put the second handle on your drill securely 90 degrees left of the trigger handle if it has one and you're right handed.
If you brace properly you might get a small bruise if you make a huge mistake, but better that than a broken wrist or rapidly wearing out a brand new drill. If you hold it properly, a 130lb person can completely overpower the drill for the 1/2 second required for a very slow thinking person to release the trigger. I'm not a huge fella and I've taught this to 130lb people, but if you hold the drill like an idiot and hold the trigger when you should let go, a good cordless drill can break or sprain your wrist. You would be better off being careful on the trigger finger and bracing the drill well. This application is also significantly more abusive than a drill chuck torque limiter is meant for. And I looked it up and sure enough that's what you've got. You can look up what those are, but suffice to say your augur is probably a regular bit, your chuck a regular chuck, and your drill a regular drill with very limited hammer function. Any serious hammer drill built in recent years is easy to spot because they have an SDS chuck that only takes SDS bits. Compared to an actual hammer drill it gives shorter faster baby hits, and is only really good for drilling 1/4" to 3/8" holes in soft or delicate materials like brick or cinder block or porcelain tile. I suspect what you actually have is a drill with hammer drill function, which is different. Actual high quality hammer drills typically have a safety overtorque that is not adjustable. This still won't help you much as even a hammer drill can bind when hitting the edge of a rock. Hammer mode won't help you in the slightest unless you get a huge hammer drill like a Hilti TE-76 and use large hammer drill bits.
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